Sunday, January 4, 2015

Stroll down the Kalpathy Lane






My childhood and teens had carried a certain dislike towards the Palakkad district in Kerala. It was one of those ‘Je ne sais qoi’ kind of dislikes or it could also be the cause and effect of a conditioned mind. I say so because it was formed without any concrete reason, just from tittle-tattle. Hailing from a Muslim dominated distrct in Kerala and being raised in the Gulf, I was more familiar with the Fajr and Azan prayers . Food for the soul was most undoubtedly Biriyani !! Inherited love towards porotta, pathiri and varutharacha kozhi curry was all part of having Malabar hardwired into my system.



So back to my detester towards Palakkad ! I have always felt that if ever you carry strong emotions, be it negative or positive, towards anything , Universe makes sure that you change your perspective on the same. It is nature’s way of telling you that it’s all in the mind. So here I was being married off to Palakkad. It made me think, ‘Of all the places, why Palakkad?’ . I found solace in the fact that my husband being in the Gulf, I wouldn’t have to spend much of my time at Palakkad. True to my apprehensions, initially, I wasn’t very impressed with the heat of Palakkad. But beyond the demographics, Kalpathy ( Tamil Brahmin street in Palakkad) had a charm I had not witnessed before. During the initial years, my conditioned mind had worked in my favour and I did not want to pay much heed to this small settlement. After my son was born, I was too busy in his world to be able to pay any attention to the world outside. All this while Kalpathy passed by me in silence. Patiently it carried on with its humble existence. 


My in laws stayed a street away from Kalpathy and I always had an affinity for that house and the lovely people in it. It was very different from my parents’ house as in one was socially alive where as the other had an aura of heavenly solitude. As my son grew bigger, I looked forward to my holiday stay at my in laws’. By then I had begun to observe Kalpathy and its modest survival. My inward journey prospered in the spiritual ambience. The Brahmin lifestyle I witnessed around had a certain divinity which was enriching in every sense. Though I am not for ritualism, the many number of poojas I attended as a good neighbour was truly a blissful experience. Ringing of the bells and chanting of the mantras had its own magical influence. An evening stroll down the Kalpathy lane was a treat to all my senses. Age old houses sharing common walls had old Brahmin couples resting on the ummarapadi ( the seating at the foyer)facing the artfully done kolam. This kolam would have reduced into a fine line of white dust by evening. Even then shining through it was the rich culture and tradition . Aroma of filter coffee and jasmine flowers filled the air. Life seemed simple and people seemed content. Extreme humility of Kalpathy is reflected in its scholars, musicians, scientists pouring in from different corners of the world to be a part of the famous Ratholsavam (Kalpathy Chariot festival) . The famous proverb ‘ Looks are deceptive’ was re affirmed when I saw the dhoti clad Brahmin scholars (sacred thread across the chest confirms the upper caste) walking up and down the streets of Kalpathy in the most unassuming manner. Streets and temples of Kalpathy narrated tales of more than 700 years.

After 13 years of my marriage my mother in law has decided to shift base to Malabar due to personal reasons. It is a matter of excitement for me as Malabar runs in my veins. But as I process the fact that I will no longer have those long stays at Kalapathy, I feel a heavy cloud hanging over my chest. 
What am i being snatched away from ?

· Is it the serenity of the house that also happens to be my husband’s debut architectural design?
· Is it the temple bells and the mantras ringing loud?
· Is it the soul filling aroma of filter coffee and jasmine flowers?
· Is it the visual treat of Kanjeevaram clad Brahmin women ?
· Is it the seemingly uncomplicated and technologically less driven community?
· Is it the heart warming fact that the rat race is few streets FAR away?


I know not!! I guess it’s a combination of it all.



By jotting down these sentiments I come of realization that I will miss the Varanasi of South for reasons more than one. May the soul of this place always rise above the competitive struggle of the modern world !!